Coming from a shore town, I am intrinsically drawn to surf culture. While I have yet to learn to surf, much to my chagrin, the freedom it represents, and the connection that surfers have with nature and the ocean draws me in. The ebb and flow of the sea becomes a way of life. Accepting that things are beyond your control, understanding the need to, pardon my cliche, go with the flow, they become your mantras. The ocean is therapeutic, cleansing. To work with it, to ride along its movement, I could not imagine. I long to learn, but in the meantime I am satisfied with lusting at moments captured on film
These vintage shots have a particular allure to me, as I live in a constant state of nostalgia.